The 2012 Montiano sports a new design and front label that is cleaner and minimalist in personality. That doesn't change the fact that this is one of the most historic Merlot-based wines in Italy that put Lazio wines on the map. Riccardo Cotarella had set his sights on great Merlot from his home turf, that lies on the Lazio and Umbria border in central Italy. This vintage is especially plump and opulent and signals a slight evolution in the winemaking style of this historic wine. It feels more elegant and streamlined thanks to the purity of its aromas. Black cherry, blackberry, Indian spice, dark chocolate and pressed rose petal come together in seamless fashion.

Sporting a new, minimalist design (a simple cream background replaces the label’s previous look), the 2010 Montiano is a great achievement for Riccardo Cotarella and his family. The wine is 100% Merlot and every effort has been made to preserve the high quality of fruit harvested in this happy vintage. It’s bold, rich, velvety and chocolaty all at the same time, with mesmerizing layers of dark cherry, Indian spice and tobacco. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Riccardo Cotarella’s Falesco straddles the Umbria-Lazio boarder and makes wines from both regions. Today his children and son-in-law all work with him at the winery. Importer: Winebow; www.winebow.com

Riccardo Cotarella's 2009 Merlot Montiano is the clear highlight in this set of new releases. Mocha, espresso, sweet spices and plums flesh out beautifully in the glass. There is an element of floral lift and freshness that is highly intriguing. The balance of fruit, structure and oak is striking. Textured, harmonious and inviting, the Montiano is absolutely gorgeous today. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. It's hard to believe 30 years have passed at Falesco, but they have. Riccardo Cotarella's Falesco wines are all about value, and there is plenty of that here. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2008 Merlot Montiano is absolutely beautiful in this vintage. Sweet dark fruit, mocha and spices are followed by hints of smoke, tar and incense. Silky tannins frame the fruit beautifully from start to finish. This seamless, polished red is a terrific showing from Falesco. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Brothers Renzo and Riccardo Cotarella make a wide range of wines at Falesco, their family-owned winery on the Umbria/Lazio border. As always, readers will find a number of great values in this lineup. The range includes three additions that have been in the works for the last few years; the Sagrantino, Syrah Tellus and Assisi Rosso, the wine I am personally the most excited about. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Merlot Montiano is a perplexing wine. The fruit is bold, ripe and primary, but perhaps too much so, as elements of heat and alcohol are prominent. The Montiano reveals a round, creamy finish, but here, too, there is a slight element of woodiness to the tannins that detracts from the balance. Both bottles I tasted were disappointing. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Proprietor Riccardo Cotarella is a fountain of energy. Cotarella is best known for his numerous consulting projects, but in recent years he has devoted considerable attention to reviving some of the indigenous and obscure varieties found in Lazio and Umbria. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620