Landi has been working on the house Vin Santo, in particularly on the volatile acidity which is often a rather prominent feature of this type of wine. The 1999 Vin Santo is certainly a success in this regard, and the brilliant old gold color, peach and hazelnut aromas, and good viscosity are certainly highly pleasurable. But, for me, the wine is a bit too fresh and would have benefited in complexity from a lengthier period of barrel aging. Drink: 2005-2015. Importer: Vias, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 1998 Vin Santo, amber and old gold in color, reveals a nose of dried apricots, maple syrup, vanilla cream, and coffee, energized and pushed by the volatile acidity so necessary in this type of wine. Viscous and dense, sweet but balanced, the peach and apricot flavors refreshed by the unobtrusive acidity, this impeccable example of a Tuscan classic will last 20 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200