The 2008 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva is an attractive, medium-bodied wine laced with dark cherries, flowers, mint, spices and French oak. This is a pretty Riserva that shows the lithe structure of the year. The oak is noticeable, but not overly so. There is enough acidity for the 2008 to age well over the next few years, but it isn’t a huge wine. The Riserva is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Mammolo and 5% Colorino, aged in equal parts cask and smaller French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.
Consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella is now the man in charge at Fattoria del Cerro and all of the SAI Agricola properties, which includes La Poderina in Montalcino. Although the wines could use a little more polish, these seem like assignments that require a gentle guide rather than a total revolution. If anything these wines need less, not more. The quality of the fruit of the entry-level wines suggests the raw materials are first-rate.
Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200