Unfortunately I was only able to taste one wine from Fattoria San Lorenzo this year. The 2007 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Vigna delle Oche is a pretty wine laced with apricots, peaches, flowers and minerals. A clean vein of minerality keeps the wine fresh and focused through to the finish. The slightly late harvest style adds a measure of richness and body, while maintaining terrific overall balance. This is a strong effort from Fattoria San Lorenzo. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2006 Verdicchio Vigna delle Oche offers up an enticing array of smoke, earthiness and ripe peaches in a generous, soft-textured style. This pure, clean white shows outstanding balance, not to mention tons of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Fattoria di San Lorenzo makes a number of delicious wines, but those that are the most compelling are the Verdicchios, which run the gamut from simpler styles to the late-release Il San Lorenzo. Proprietor Natalino Crognaletti aims for a late-harvest style which informs all of his wines with notable richness and complexity in both flavors and texture.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2005 Verdicchio Vigna delle Oche is sweet, polished and refined, with generous ripe fruit and a full-bodied personality. Finessed tannins round out the finish. The Vigne delle Oche was aged 12 months in steel. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Lovely on the nose, with a round bouquet featuring honey and almond in addition to fresh sea air. Impeccably smooth and whole across the palate, with pure stone-fruit flavors and a subdued nuttiness. Polished, full and complex, with subtlety.——M.S.(8/1/2004)—— 89