The 2006 Verdicchio Vigna delle Oche offers up an enticing array of smoke, earthiness and ripe peaches in a generous, soft-textured style. This pure, clean white shows outstanding balance, not to mention tons of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Fattoria di San Lorenzo makes a number of delicious wines, but those that are the most compelling are the Verdicchios, which run the gamut from simpler styles to the late-release Il San Lorenzo. Proprietor Natalino Crognaletti aims for a late-harvest style which informs all of his wines with notable richness and complexity in both flavors and texture.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200