Fattoria di Felsina Maestro Raro Berardenga Cabernet Sauvignon

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The 2008 Maestro Raro (Cabernet Sauvignon) is another hugely expressive wine from Felsina in this vintage. Juicy dark cherries, menthol, licorice and grilled herbs are just some of the aromas and flavors that emerge from the glass. The 2008 isn’t the most varietally true Maestro Raro, but the wine nevertheless impresses for its superb grace. The Cabernet is mostly felt in the wine’s volume, which clearly stands apart from the rest of the production. Waves of fruit build to the gorgeous, expansive finish. This is a striking wine. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. Felsina is the house Giuseppe Mazzocolin built, to borrow a phrase from Babe Ruth and the original Yankee Stadium. Last year Mazzocolin decided to step back from his insane day to day schedule running the winery. While Mazzocolin remains intimately involved in the winery, the future leadership of Felsina is in the hands of Giovanni Poggiali, the oldest son of proprietor Giuseppe Poggiali.Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400

Felsina’s 2007 Maestro Raro (Cabernet Sauvignon) is simply beautiful in this vintage. A host of grilled herbs, plums, cassis and earthiness emerge from this distinctly Tuscan Cabernet. The fruit is soft, dark and opulent, but never heavy. A soft, caressing finish rounds things out nicely. This is a terrific effort from Felsina. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Felsina is a reference-point property for readers who want to discover the best Tuscany has to offer. Prices remain exceedingly fair considering the quality of what is in the bottle.Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400

The estate’s 2006 Maestro Raro (Cabernet Sauvignon) speaks more to the qualities of Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost tip of the Chianti Classico zone, than it does to varietal character. Nevertheless, the wine is quite beautiful. The rich, sweeping Maestro Raro reveals outstanding polish and balance in a full-bodied style that needs another year or two to come together. Maestro Raro spent 20 months in French oak, 60% of which was new. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. If you were to cut proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin’s veins the man would bleed Sangiovese, such is his passion for Tuscany’s most important native grape. Mazzocolin has a terrific set of new releases on his hands. The 2006s are glorious and benefit from a warm growing season that also saw good alternation of day and evening temperatures before the grapes got a final kick of heat that informs the wines. In 2007, I have only tasted the Chianti Classico so far, but if that wine is indicative, Felsina could have another superb vintage in store for fans of this venerable property. So far 2007 looks to be a vintage of ripe wines made in a more generous, if early maturing style, than the firmer 2006s. Not only are Felsina’s wines magnificent, they also remain exceedingly fairly priced in relative terms. Mazzocolin deserves much credit and support from readers for his consumer-friendly approach, especially in these challenging times.Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400

The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Maestro Raro rounds out Felsina’s lineup in this important vintage. A perfumed wine, it reveals layers of flavors that continue to open as the wine sits in the glass. Sweet tobacco, flowers, minerals, menthol, cherries and plums all flow from this structured, beautifully balanced expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from Chianti Classico. The big, building tannins suggest additional cellaring will be beneficial. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina’s prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina’s second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Despite it size, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Meastro Raro shows remarkable finesse for the vintage. This is an especially brooding Maestro Raro loaded with black cherries, grilled herbs and earthiness. Today it comes across powerful yet generous and it is sure to improve with further bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina’s prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina’s second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404