I was somewhat underwhelmed, if not disappointed, in the 2010 Cote Rotie l’Eglantine which revealed copious herbal notes as well as a thin, quickly evaporating palate. (Not yet released)If the turn around in quality of the Paul Jaboulet-Aine wines is the biggest good news story of qualitative improvement in the northern Rhone, what Michel Chapoutier has accomplished with Ferraton is a close second. This is definitely a name to be taken seriously, as Chapoutier has expanded the portfolio and continues to upgrade the quality across the board. Ferraton’s 2009s and 2010s are the finest wines made to date. There appears to be three levels of quality now being produced, beginning with the generic bottlings, to the single vineyard (or lieu-dit) offerings, followed by the top of the line, more expensive, limited production efforts called selections parcellaires.Importer: A French Paradox, Peoria, IL; tel. (309) 682-8994

Tapenade, underbrush, forest floor, pepper, lard, sweet raspberry and red currant characteristics emerge from the 2009 Cote Rotie l’Eglantine. This medium-bodied, already complex Cote Rotie should drink well for a decade. (Not yet released)Ferraton’s parent company, Chapoutier, has done an excellent job in St.-Peray working with Marsanne and Roussanne. This long-forgotten appellation may turn out to be the Northern Rhone’s white wine answer to Burgundy’s Chablis. As for the 2009 red wines, this is the best portfolio of dry red wines Ferraton has yet produced.Importer: A French Paradox, Peoria, IL; tel. (309) 682-8994

On the lighter side, with a crisp edge to the slightly leafy tobacco, pepper and black cherry fruit notes. There's good length, but this is shy on flesh. Drink now. 210 cases made. -JM