If Springsteen sang about American Zinfandel, this is the wine he’d be drinking. Has those brawny, wild berry flavors, with their edge of pepper and herbs, that define the varietal. Acidity kicks, tannins are well-scrubbed and negotiable. This is rock and roll in the mouth, and downright fun. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 90