An outlier, playing a deck of textural persuasion over obvious fruit. A furl of peaty lees, obvious sulfur, soft acidity and orchard fruits. Not the best vintage. This is best drunk soon. Drink now.

Packaged in its pretty ribbed bottle, the 2021 Falanghina del Sannio Serrocielo shows creamy peach, quince, pear and white flower. This informal white wine offers a lean mouthfeel, but the fruit shows enough tension and volume to pair with a classic baked Mediterranean fish dish.

The Feudi di San Gregorio 2020 Falanghina del Sannio Serrocielo (packaged in a pretty, ribbed bottle) is flinty, chalk and bright with citrus, white peach and tart honeydew melon. This is a linear and tight expression with the fresh acidity to pair with fried finger foods. The results are thin and streamlined to the palate.

Presented in a handsome, ribbed bottle, the 2018 Falanghina del Sannio Serrocielo reveals deep inner freshness and minerality, all wrapped into one citrus and peach-driven white wine. Serrocielo shows great intensity, balance and a superbly easy-drinking style, with winemaking executed only in stainless steel to lock in those primary aromas. Some 50,000 bottles were produced.

The 2017 Falanghina del Sannio Serrocielo delivers the goods if you are looking for a fresh and easy white wine to pair with raw fish, summer salads or tangy Thai dishes. I love the sunny exuberance and versatility of this no-fuss white wine. The bouquet is direct and well-paced with a succession of citrus, pear and salty mineral notes. Fruit is sourced from 18- to 25-year-old vines planted at 300 meters above sea level in gravely sandy soils. Some 50,000 bottles were made.