The wines feel fresher each vintage, and the single-vineyard 2018 El Roble Viejo, from their oldest plot of vines from the previous owners, feels fresher than the 2016 I tasted next to it even if there are some similarities between the two years. It fermented with 50% full clusters in concrete and matured in oak barrels (60% of the volume) and in concrete for almost three years. The wine is ripe and heady with 15% alcohol and a full body. It's concentrated, powerful and tannic, in need of some more time in bottle. It's an improvement over the 2016 (and the 2019 I previewed felt even better...). 2.193 bottles produced.

The 2016 El Roble Viejo comes from the oldest vineyard on the Torremilanos property, planted with Tempranillo, Garnacha and other varieties, including white grapes. It fermented destemmed in concrete and matured in a combination of barrel (60%) and concrete for 32 months. It comes through as a bit rustic, with earthy aromas and dusty tannins, and it is full-bodied and ripe with 15% alcohol. 1,242 bottles and 89 magnums produced. It was bottled in July 2019.

The 2008 Roble Viejo is pure Tempranillo with a little Garnacha and white Tempranillo fermented in Nomblot and 40% aged in wood. It has superb delineation on the nose with brambly black fruit, minerals and a touch of wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, chalky tannins and great precision on the austere finish. It is a little distant in the mouth – but fresh as a daisy. Excellent. Drink now-2016. The hawks were watching when I visited Bodegas Torremilanos. The birds of prey are part of the ecosystem that dovetails into their biodynamic viticulture, keeping pests away without resorting to pesticides and so forth. The family purchased the property in 1975, when wine was worth a pittance, so much so that the father of present winemaker Ricardo Penalba had to pretend that he was buying the land to turn it into a quarry! The vineyards have been expanded over the years so that there are presently 119 hectares under vine. This is an address where new ideas are being put into practice apropos unorthodox grape varieties and vinification techniques, including experimenting with concrete eggs and natural wine. “How do you know unless you try?” is the maxim at Finca Torremilanos. How refreshing to hear that. While they were not necessarily the best wines I tasted during my trip, I admire someone willing to take risks and experiment, just as I encouraged in my introduction. The result is an interesting portfolio that is worth seeking out and following. I spent an afternoon with Ricardo tasting through his portfolio from Ribera del Duero. Since I had the time, I agreed to taste his Cava and VDT wines that comes under the Penalba Lopez label, but will include them here for convenience sake. Importer: Grapes of Spain. www.grapesofspain.com

The purple-colored 2007 El Roble Viejo is 90% Tempranillo along with 5% Garnacha and 5% Albillo aged in cement tank and new French oak. It emits a nearly ethereal aromatic array of sandalwood, scorched earth, truffle, lavender, blackberry, and licorice. Full-bodied, savory, rich, and complex, this elegantly styled wine will evolve for another 3-4 years and drink well through 2027 if not longer. Bodegas Finca Torremilanos is well known for its red wines but it also makes a very fine Cava. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; www.grapesofspain.com