Shows the intense, focused lemon drop and minerality of the estate and indeed of the appellation, with an additional high-toned floral honeysuckle quality and almost a honeyed touch of botrytis. Very rich, very pure in lemon candy, guava and pineapple, with firm acidity and a steely, stony feel in the finish. This is really an elegant, complex white wine. Editors’ Choice. ——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 94