Deliciously complex and layered, with tiers of ripe peach, pear, fig and honeysuckle that are supple and graceful, holding its focus and gaining depth on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 335 cases made. -JL

The 2008 Chardonnay JA Ranch flows with the essence of juicy pears, honeysuckle, jasmine and citrus. This is a beautifully balanced Chardonnay, with elements of brightness that play off some of the more overt French oak notes on the finish. The JA Ranch spent 20 months in French oak (75% new) and was vinified with partial malolactic fermentation. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Bill Foley. The wines show the restraint and finesse of the cool, long growing season.Tel. (805) 737-6222; www.foleywines.com