The 2008 Chardonnay Barrel Select is the richest and fattest of these Chardonnays from Foley. It blossoms on the palate with layers of ripe tropical fruit and a buttery, broad-shouldered personality. There is just enough acidity and freshness to balance some of the more overt qualities of the fruit. The Barrel Select spent 20 months in French oak (80% new) and was vinified with partial malolactic fermentation. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Bill Foley. The wines show the restraint and finesse of the cool, long growing season.Tel. (805) 737-6222; www.foleywines.com

The 2004 Chardonnay Barrel Select is brilliant. It tastes like a French Corton-Charlemagne. Notes of crushed rocks, lemon butter, honeyed citrus, and white peaches fill the olfactory senses and stain the palate. This concentrated, medium to full-bodied, rich, intense Chardonnay exhibits beautifully integrated acidity and a subtle touch of oak. The wine is distributed through the well-known importer, Kobrand, of New York City. Their telephone number is (212) 490-9300.

The wood is elevated in the 1997 Chardonnay Barrel Select, but there is no doubting its excellent fat, ripeness, and concentration. It should drink well for 2-3 years.Tel. (805) 688-8554; Fax (805) 688-9327