Showing enormous precision and direction, the 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo (with 25,000 bottles released) is a generous expression of Sangiovese that boasts singular intensity. This organic wine offers black fruit, grilled rosemary, pressed rose and crushed limestone. All of these aromas enjoy special, forward-moving intensity that dovetails into the ample fruit generosity that this sun-filled vintage will be remembered for.

This iconic wine has all new energy, as it is now part of an exciting set of potential Gran Selezione wines made at Fontodi. Two new portfolio additions (Pastrolo from cool climate Lamole and Terrazze San Leonlino from Panzano) help to give greater context to the organic 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. This wine of course benefits from many years of experience, and the Vigna del Sorbo identity is well established. But soil geeks will absolutely enjoy comparing Vigna del Sorbo from schistous galestro soils to the limestone alternative found in Terrazze San Leonlino. I tend to lean toward Vigna del Sorbo thanks to those etched mineral notes of pencil shaving and iron ore that I find so appealing. Those dusty notes are amply rounded off by sweet cherry fruit, plum and spice. Rising alcohol can be a problem in sun-drenched Panzano, and the winey team is leaving taller growth on the vines in the summer to cast shade and taking other active measures to combat this issue.

The Fontodi 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is simply gorgeous now and we should expect better things to come as the wine continues its bottle evolution. This organic, single-vineyard expression (with 29,000 bottles made) delivers impeccable balance and beautiful intensity throughout. The wine sports a developed fruit side that contrasts nicely against the spice and tobacco-like tones that come thanks to 18 months in French barrique and six months in botte. The 2018 vintage can sometimes be hard to read. For example, this wine offers sharp acidity but it also sees a 15% alcohol content plus lots of enduring sweetness and ripeness. The tannins are especially supple and sweet. I can't wait to try this wine in 10 or 15 years from now. Vigna del Sorbo hits the market in September.