This is always one of the best Chenin Blancs in California, and Foxen’s 2010 is one of their best ever. With plenty of new French oak and some serious weight and depth, it has the texture of Chardonnay, and even some of the tropical fruit. But there’s a white flower and green apple note that’s unique, as well as brisk, bright acidity.——S.H.(12/15/2011)—— 93

The 2008 Chenin Blanc Ernesto Wickenden has a delicious melon and lemon zest nose that smells of crisp citrus. This is a naked, unmanipulated wine with loads of freshness, perfume, and flowers. Luscious acidity, oodles of fruit, and a zesty, uncomplicated mouthfeel make for a food-friendly wine that would do wonders with sushi and even spicy, sweat-inducing hot Thai cuisine. Drink it over the next year. This is one of my favorite wineries in Santa Maria. Proprietors Bill Wathen and Dick Dore have been making wines at Foxen since 1985. There is some serious history as well, as one of Dick Dore’s ancestors was a retired English sea captain who settled in Santa Barbara in the early 1800s, hence the nautical symbols embedded in the labels. Foxen is one of the few wineries in California that has not abandoned one of the best grapes in the world, Chenin Blanc. This grape can produce wonderful wines from this region when handled properly. Four brilliant Pinot Noirs have emerged from Foxen in what could have been a very challenging vintage. These are some of the best examples of Pinot Noir I tasted from this vintage. P.S. All of these wines from Bill Wathen and Dick Dore are bottled “delicately,” without fining or filtration.Tel. (805) 937-4251

Fresh and tart in acidity, this is a clean, savory evocation of a variety that few Californians manage to produce this well. It’s rich in apple, citrus, peach and floral flavors, with a lychee, spicy complexity that makes it a natural for Asian fare.——S.H.(12/31/2007)—— 88