I was unfortunately too short of time to visit with Frederic Mabileau, and thus could not taste his 2009s from cask, but his old-vines 2008 St.-Nicolas de Bourgueil Eclipse No. 8 illustrates the challenges of its vintage in its aromatic hint of bell pepper and arugula, whose green shading some tasters will find unappealing. Tobacco, fennel, blackberry, and pistachio oil in the nose are appealingly variegated and follow onto a polished palate whose berry skin edge, nutty piquancy, and herbal pungency and slight bitterness make for considerable invigoration and a lasting finish. This will perform well with diverse (and challenging) vegetable dishes and should evolve interestingly over at least a 3-5 year period. A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252 8245