Mabileau’s 2007 Bourgueil Racines smells of blackberry and black walnut, along with suggestions of game and sweat. Bitter-edged black fruits and toasted nuts dominate the palate, with meat and mineral inflections entering into the long, slightly numbingly (though finely) tannic finish. While this certainly has structure, I suspect it will be best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. A Jon-David Headrick Selection, Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252-8245; also imported by Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476