From vines planted in 1967, a lush, complex wine, with peach flavors giving way to dried apricot, hazelnut, flowers and herbs, and a suggestion of brittle autumn leaves in the finish. Round, creamy and opulent on the palate, with a smoky, vanilla edge, it’s a fascinating wine that shows how good Chard can be with a little bottle age. ——S.H.(12/31/2003)—— 90