The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2021 Dolcetto d'Alba (with about 5,000 bottles made) is packed tight with bold cherry and big fruit. It is commonly remarked that Dolcetto is falling from favor, but a dedicated group of vintners continue to believe in the grape, churning out delicious wines like this that are worth your time and won't put too big a dent in your pocketbook. Fabio Alessandria tells me with a smile: "You'll see; Dolcetto is coming back."

The 2016 Dolcetto d'Alba will be released this upcoming September. This is a contained and elegant expression of Dolcetto, a grape that sometimes shows its own unique rusticity. This wine is partially made with whole clusters (anywhere from 40 to 60 percent of the total mass, depending on the vintage). This balanced vintage is fine and compact. The bouquet offers back fruit, cola and a touch of drying mineral on the finish.