Although I have been generally unimpressed with the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc from southern California, a few wineries have enjoyed success with these varietals. Certainly Gainey's 1992 Cabernet Franc Limited Selection is a textbook Cabernet Franc, exhibiting the varietal's penetrating perfume of cassis and herbs, as well as a rich display of ripe cassis and fruit, all presented in a medium-weight, elegant format gently infused with toasty new oak. At its finest, Cabernet Franc is a wine of sheer finesse and elegance, intensely flavorful, yet never heavy or flabby. Gainey has fashioned just such a wine with this effort. Approachable and delicious now, this wine should age well for at least a decade. With this limited production wine, Gainey's winemaker, Rick Longoria, continues to exhibit his impressive talents. Two hundred twenty cases were produced.Tel. (805) 688-0558.

Located in the Santa Ynez valley, this attractive winery has had a mixed track record since its debut vintage in the mid-eighties. However, under the increasingly inspired winemaking helm of Rick Longoria, Gainey has begun to exploit its considerable potential. Vintages in the nineties, including unreleased barrel samples of their 1992s, should make Gainey Vineyard a more noteworthy competitor at the top end of the fine wine market. The 1990 Cabernet Franc-Limited Selection is even more enticing than the Merlot-Limited Selection, with a spicy, black fruit, vanillin-scented bouquet, excellent richness and definition as well as a long, silky finish. Deliciously forward, it promises to last for 5-7 years. At a time when too many wineries appear to be asleep at the wheel and are content to maintain their status quo, Gainey Vineyard is making major strides in quality. Tel. (805) 688-0558