This bottling from veteran Gainey is one of the most dependable in California. The ’07 doesn’t disappoint, bringing back memories of the fabulous ’04 and ’05. Like them, it’s dry, rich and crisp in acidity, with a sourdough yeastiness, like Champagne, that heightens and brightens the lemon, lime, fig and spice flavors.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 93