Displaying toasty, yeasty white peach and peanut aromas, the 2005 Chardonnay Vin de Pays d’Oc is an oily-textured pleasure machine. Thick, spicy, and expressive, it is riddled with apples, pears, and melon balls. It should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463.

With its distinctive enameled, flowered bottle, this sets out to be a fun party wine. It succeeds with its fresh, flowery, open fruit, enhanced by vanilla, spice and green apple flavors. ——R.V.(12/31/2006)—— 84

Loads of spicy, smoky pears are found in the aromatics of the 2001 Chardonnay (flower label). This linear, focused wine displays appealing white fruit flavors in its satin-textured character. Drink it over the next year. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121

Duboeuf's 1991 Chardonnay offers wonderful floral, fresh apple blossom aromas, crisp, juicy fruit, light to medium body, and a zesty finish. It possesses more purity and a far more interesting aromatic profile than ninety percent of the new world Chardonnays whose aromas are non-existent. It should be consumed before Duboeuf releases his 1992s - in about twelve months. If you are looking for a terrific wine bargain that is a beautifully made, lively wine, check this out. Leave it to the "King of Beaujolais" to travel outside of his kingdom to fashion an immensely tasty, pleasure-giving, vividly fresh wine that sells at bargain prices. The King of Beaujolais should have a second title bestowed - the Master of Purse Pleasing Pleasure.Importers: William A. Deutsch and Sons, Ltd., Chappaque, NY and Wine Sellers, Skokie, IL.