Displaying toasty, yeasty white peach and peanut aromas, the 2005 Chardonnay Vin de Pays d’Oc is an oily-textured pleasure machine. Thick, spicy, and expressive, it is riddled with apples, pears, and melon balls. It should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463.

With its distinctive enameled, flowered bottle, this sets out to be a fun party wine. It succeeds with its fresh, flowery, open fruit, enhanced by vanilla, spice and green apple flavors. ——R.V.(12/31/2006)—— 84