Georges Duboeuf Chateau de Grand Pre, Fleurie, France

杜寶夫酒莊格朗普雷莊園紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：6932

Claude Zordan 的 Fleurie Chateau de Grand Pre 在近兩年里給人留下了深刻的印象。在 2010 年，這款酒 又一次作為高品質(zhì)好酒的代表，成為 Duboeuf 款酒中令人垂涎的對象，值得人們再追捧至少 3 至 4 年。酒中含有草莓、櫻桃、薄荷、甜橙和橘皮的風味，口感多汁、清爽、苦甜參半。若是一位雙目完全失明的人品嘗這款酒，他可能會覺得這款柔軟平滑、活潑明快、清新怡人的好酒是一款白葡萄酒或桃紅葡萄酒。George Duboeuf 及其莊園的合作伙伴從九月中旬就開始采摘葡萄，一直持續(xù)到十一月的第一個星期，他們聲稱自己對葡萄的產(chǎn)量和質(zhì)量都非常滿意。大多數(shù)的葡萄可以產(chǎn)生出 12-12.5% 酒精，只有一小部分需要加糖。Duboeuf 說 2010 年的葡萄酒帶有異常特別、令人驚奇的色彩?？梢灶A測，六月份裝瓶的葡萄酒數(shù)量要遠遠多于 2009 年六月份的數(shù)量。這款酒采用傳統(tǒng)的工藝釀造，代表了號稱為 Selections Georges Duboeuf 的一批好酒，酒瓶上飾以帶花的酒廠標簽。

After a 2008 rendition that outclassed its fellow Fleurie in the Duboeuf portfolio, the 2009 Fleurie Chateau de Grand Pre – tasted from tank –follows in the same impressive mold and then some. Vinification under the direction of owner Claude Zordan involves partial de-stemming and extended, cool fermentation; and the wine will enjoy a longer stay in tank than most of its fellow Duboeuf 2009s. Scents of blueberry, blackberry, and almond extract usher in a juicy and refreshing palate and the finishing buoyancy belies the wine’s nearly 14% alcohol. Fruit pit bitterness, tart berry skin, and an illusive but distinctive sense of mineral savor (there is a hint of iodine, but that’s not all) render this as intriguing as it is sensually satisfying. I suspect one could enjoyably follow this for at least 3-4 years. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Mineral and carnal character is exactly what the 2008 Fleurie Chateau de Grand Pre delivers in the form of bone meal and beef marrow mingled with bright plum. This displays wonderful sappiness and energy, making me ask “What’s got into its Fleurie stable mates?” Plum pit bitterness and underlying meatiness mark a finish that is lip smacking in its brightness and mineral savor. I would love to see what this does beyond the first couple of years in the bottle. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf continue to represent outstanding values in the American marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of 2008s, with few exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value recommendations, including some – from among that wide range of domaines with which Duboeuf has long-standing commercial relationships – that might not show up in the U.S. market. The so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees continue to bear a variation on this negociant’s signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition, please assume that any wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred DuBoeuf’s Beaujolais bottlings in their youth, with a few of the domaine crus having exhibited with bottle age a complexity concomitant with the effort to cellar them, and where not otherwise noted, my recommendation is to enjoy the following wines over the next couple of years. The Duboeuf 2008 Beaujolais-Villages – at 30,000 cases, representing their largest single lot of wine, and twice the volume of their appellation Beaujolais – was a bit green and rustic by comparison, and multiple bottles of a Chateau des Vierres bottling were oddly inexpressive and drying on the occasion of my visit. Duboeuf’s flower label 2008 Fleurie is another of their wines of this vintage that is atypically austere, and in this instance a bit much so, and their 2008 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents and Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards were a bit drying and rough under the influence both of its barrel component and its very recent bottling when I tasted it.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Revealing the nose of a complex Pinot Noir from a ripe vintage, the red cherry, spice, earth, and blackberry-scented 2003 Fleurie Chateau de Grand Pre presents a confounding dichotomy of mature and youthful traits. Its personality is redolent with evolved black as well as red cherry flavors that are deep, fresh, and complex. Its finish, however, is youthfully tight, uncoiled, and revealing some unresolved tannin. It will be interesting to see how Duboeuf completes this effort’s elevage. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121