The Borgogno 2013 Barolo Riserva offers some aromas of tilled earth, burning embers and even a touch of eucalyptus leaf. There is little primary fruit left and what you do get is rather shallow and muddled. This is a theme shared by most of these new releases from Borgogno.

Showing some of the signs of a warm vintage, the 2012 Barolo Riserva offers plump and dark fruit with light shadings of spice, licorice and tar. Like the other new releases from Borgogno presented here, this wine lacks focus and clarity. The fruit seems muddled, and I'm not sure why this is. I suggest giving the wine more time to unfold and relax in the bottle.

Beginning to hit a sweet spot, this Barolo is supple and rich, revealing notes of cherry, white pepper and tobacco, with a hint of licorice. Firm tannins lend support as this fades gracefully on the long aftertaste. Best from 2020 through 2033. 840 cases made, 20 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

The 2011 Barolo Riserva offers a very interesting interpretation of the vintage. This was an infamously hot year that often showcases jammy and openly sweet fruit tones in its top-shelf wines. But you really don't get any of that here. This wine is steady but also subdued in terms of its delivery with dried black fruit, smoke, tar and spice. The mouthfeel is tonic and firm. You might mistake this as a Riserva from a cooler, more cellar-worthy vintage.

This red is hard to beat, though it will be better in another 10 years. Deftly balanced, this delivers cherry, berry, eucalyptus, iron and tar aromas and flavors. The well-integrated structure drives the long, complex finish. Approachable now, yet the tannins are still assertive. A classic Barolo from a great vintage. Best from 2021 through 2046. 840 cases made, 20 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add