Mouthpuckeringly tannic at first, this rustic, leathery Montepulciano grown in the hills above Jamestown has a lot of soul, its Italian roots easy to trace and enjoy. Chuck Hovey makes the well-structured, full-bodied wine, a liquid bowl of ripe plums and raspberries, which could stand a bit of bottle age and a gigantic plate of food.——V.B.(12/15/2011)—— 89