It's a bit ironic that Gibbston Valley's 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir comes, in fact, from Bendigo, but it is testament to just how difficult Gibbston can be as a subregion. Made with 60% whole clusters and aged in one-third new French oak, it's an excellent modern Pinot Noir, possessing attractive floral notes, hints of barrel influence and plenty of medium-bodied cherry fruit. The tannins are smooth and unobtrusive, turning silky on the long finish. It should drink well for a decade or so.

Medium ruby-purple in color, the 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir is profoundly scented of warm cherries, kirsch, raspberries and underbrush with a savory and spice undercurrent of cinnamon, mace, soy, truffles and black pepper. Medium-bodied and elegantly fruited, the flavors are tight-knit and complex with medium-firm chewy tannins and crisp acidity providing support. It has a long, layered finish. Approachable now, it should cellar to 2016+. No known USA importer.

The 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir has very fine definition on the nose with blueberry, raspberry and dark plum, great lift and purity. The palate is well balanced with rounded tannins, good backbone and poise, silky and plush towards the finish. Delicious. Drink now-2015. No known USA importer.