It's a bit ironic that Gibbston Valley's 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir comes, in fact, from Bendigo, but it is testament to just how difficult Gibbston can be as a subregion. Made with 60% whole clusters and aged in one-third new French oak, it's an excellent modern Pinot Noir, possessing attractive floral notes, hints of barrel influence and plenty of medium-bodied cherry fruit. The tannins are smooth and unobtrusive, turning silky on the long finish. It should drink well for a decade or so.