Gies-Duppel Riesling Trocken Calcit

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The Gies-Duppel 2009 Riesling trocken Calcit is scented with orange blossom and honeysuckle; comes to the palate with bright lemon and orange allied to invigorating salinity; and finishes with a delicious, somehow crystalline sense of minerality and consummate refreshment, even if a touch of austerity. Plan to enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. Volker Gies – for more about whose vineyards and methods consult my coverage in issue 185 –continues to display impressive talent and is happily receiving increasing recognition inside Germany. Hopefully wider U.S. distribution of this estate’s wines will follow. Like other of the best 2009 vintage Rieslings from Gies’s corner of the southern Pfalz, his harbor highly efficacious acidity and high energy of a sort that can by no means be taken for granted – not even on the Mosel! – in this vintage (and indeed, is almost entirely absent in the Rieslings from further south in Alsace). I have been quite keen on Gies’s Pinot Blancs, but found them (as well as his Pinot Gris) – despite ample ripeness – marginally disappointing from 2009, a circumstance familiar from this vintage in neighboring Alsace.Importer: Tartaglione Fine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 216-3356