Plenty of citrus, orange peel, honey and beeswax with some pumice and volcanic soil character. Medium body, with firm and integrated tannins that are energetic and integrated. Very pretty now but even better in three or four years. Drink or hold.

This is the entry-level red from Girolamo Russo. Made with Nerello Mascalese and about 10% Nerello Cappuccio blended from various vineyard sites, the 2021 Etna Rosso 'a Rina offers terrific value with wild berry, blue flower and crushed stone over an elegant mouthfeel. The emphasis is on freshness and balance.

The Girolamo Russo 2020 Etna Rosso 'a Rina has a wild, almost unruly character, and it stands out in this flight of releases from Giuseppe Russo. It is more open-knit in texture and more accessible overall with wild berry, white pepper, ashy soils and pressed lavender. It carries light fruit with lean concentration. This entry-level red usually sees a touch of Nerello Cappuccio in the blend, and that's where that peppery component comes from.

Mostly Nerello Mascalese with a 10% touch of Nerello Cappuccio, the Girolamo Russo 2018 Etna Rosso 'a Rina is the estate's entry-level red. The wine sports more fruit weight than some of the other reds in this portfolio, with dark cherry and plum, but it remains quite elegant and fine. Fruit is blended from various sites, but the lion's share comes from Feudo and San Lorenzo. This vintage of about 38,000 bottles is tight and taut with plenty of small-berry nuances and softly fragrant blue mountain flowers. This could be a great opportunity to try a classic Sicilian recipe of involtini, or stuffed veal rolls.

The 2016 Etna Rosso 'a Rina is a little more subdued in this vintage compared to past releases. However, you are most definitely treated to the impressive quality and sheer energy that always identifies the wines of this remarkable estate—by far one of my favorites on the volcano. The mouthfeel is tight, linear and full of vibrant energy.