The Giuseppe Mascarello 2012 Barolo Riserva Monprivato Cà d'Morissio is only made in the best vintages. We did not see the wine in 2009 and 2011, but we did see it in 2010 and 2013. I have some reservations regarding this expression from the hot 2012 vintage. I tasted the wine at two separate moments, and although my first impression was one of enthusiasm, I was disappointed to see that it did not hold very long once the bottle was opened. This is a delicate and fragile wine that starts with wild berry and tobacco but ultimately reveals sun-drenched fruit, scorched earth and dried cherry skin. The quality of the fruit is very ripe, open and probably prone to some oncoming oxidation due to the hot and dry growing conditions. My suggestion is to catch this iconic wine on the near side instead of the far side.

The 2010 Barolo Riserva Monprivato Cà d'Morissio is one of the defining wines of this iconic vintage. This important wine was not made in 2009 or 2011. There will be releases in 2012 and 2013. However, the Mascarello family is not yet sure about 2014. If they do release the wine in that vintage, bottle production will be very small. Generally speaking, 4,000 bottles is the normal production target. This wine should be released more or less as this report is published in late spring 2018. There is a lot to say here, starting with the bouquet that is precisely defined and layered. You get tones of forest fruit, crushed mineral, wild sage and balsam herb. There are renderings of iodine, anise seed and licorice as well. What stands out most is the wine's seamless integration. The tannins are firm and dry, with just enough latitude to offer future development. This wine ages in bottle for two and a half years before its commercial release. It should not be touched for at least 5 more years, or preferably more.

This is the current vintage on the market now. The 2008 Barolo Riserva Monprivato Cà d'Morissio is a polished and expressive creation that has inched slowly along its aging trajectory in the many years that have passed since the harvest. The wine has one foot in the realm of primary aromas with dark fruit and dried plum. The other foot has already moved toward tertiary tones of campfire ash, licorice, road paving and perfumed white truffle. The effects of oxygen have started their magic on this well-built and solid wine. The long finish ends with dryness and austerity.

The 2007 Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca d’Morissio is another exotic, super-rich, hedonistic wine endowed with gorgeous textural depth and an eternal finish. It is shaping up to be monumental. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2047. (Not yet released) Proprietor Mauro Mascarello is best known for his Baroli, but his entry-level wines also merit considerable attention. The wines are always released on the late side, so finding the time to review them can be a challenge, hence their inclusion in this issue. I also had a chance to taste Mascarello’s 2007 Baroli from cask and they are living up to the immense promise I sensed when I first sampled them a few years ago. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca d’Morissio is totally seamless and beautiful. It possesses gorgeous textural richness and finesse with virtually no perception of tannin. Rose petals, flowers, raspberries and mint come alive in the glass, but it is the wine’s subtle yet insistent chalky minerality that is the thread that holds the wine together. This is a hugely impressive Barolo with a bright future. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. One of the great tastings in Piemonte is sitting down with Mauro Mascarello and his son Giuseppe, and going through all of their wines from barrel. Vintage 2008 is looking good so far. The wines have great transparency to site and plenty of personality. Mascarello planned to bottle the 2008 Baroli during the summer of 2012. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484