The 2001 Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca d’Morissio is a staggering wine of heroic proportions. It’s all there in the glass. Dark cherries, flowers, spices and minerals emerge as this powerful, intense Barolo shows off its inimitable pedigree. The 2001 isn’t likely to be one of the biggest Ca d’Morissios, but it is impeccable and totally satisfying in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2031. Mauro Mascarello’s 2001s showed very well. I have had the privilege of attending more than my fair share of Monprivato verticals, but something tells me future tastings are going to be even more special, as the number of great examples of this wine has never been higher. Imagine tasting the 1999, 2001, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 in another 10-15 years’ time! Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2001 Barolo Riserva Ca’ d’ Morissio reveals extraordinary purity and elegance in its suggestions of raspberries, flowers, licorice, mint and sweet spices. Even at seven years of age it remains an incredibly primary, fresh wine with silky-textured tannins and notable finesse. Mascarello’s wines often put on considerable weight in the bottle and I expect the same to happen here. The Ca’ d’ Morissio is made from a one-hectare plot in the Monprivato vineyard planted with a special variety of the Michet Nebbiolo clone which is known to yield especially structured, age-worthy wines. There are only about 2,500 bottles of this wine, a tiny production per hectare by any measure. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2041. Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family’s estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today’s younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today’s big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello’s signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484