The 2003 Amabile del Cere is a surprising wine. There is plenty of depth and power, but not any sense of heaviness, despite the torrid vintage. Burnt sugar, orange peel, cinnamon, dried figs and spices blossom in the glass as this gorgeous wine shows off its inimitable personality. This is another marvelous showing from Giuseppe Quintarelli. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Giuseppe Quintarelli's passing earlier this year left a huge void in the wine world that isn't likely to ever be filled. Veneto is a fascinating region with tons of untapped potential, yet only one or two other producers have managed to make hypnotic, life-changing wines such as those that are found in these tiny cramped cellars in Negrar. At their best, Quintarelli's wines had no equal. I only hope the estate continues the tradition of making these idiosyncratic, compelling wines. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

The 1990 Amabile del Cere is a relatively recent release from the winery. This sweet white dessert wine flows from the glass with endless nuances of licorice, roasted coffee beans, toffee, star anise and sweet spices, showing remarkable purity. The layers of fruit and complex tertiary aromas lead to a long, caressing finish that lingers on the palate with tons of elegance. This sublime dessert wine is another gem from Quintarelli. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. It isn't easy to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli, as this legendary producer releases his wines when he feels they are ready, not a moment sooner. As is often the case, these are some of the most mind-blowing wines being made anywhere, but sadly, prices are equally dizzying. Still, for readers who can afford them, these are reference-point wines. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999