The 2003 Amabile del Cere is a surprising wine. There is plenty of depth and power, but not any sense of heaviness, despite the torrid vintage. Burnt sugar, orange peel, cinnamon, dried figs and spices blossom in the glass as this gorgeous wine shows off its inimitable personality. This is another marvelous showing from Giuseppe Quintarelli. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Giuseppe Quintarelli's passing earlier this year left a huge void in the wine world that isn't likely to ever be filled. Veneto is a fascinating region with tons of untapped potential, yet only one or two other producers have managed to make hypnotic, life-changing wines such as those that are found in these tiny cramped cellars in Negrar. At their best, Quintarelli's wines had no equal. I only hope the estate continues the tradition of making these idiosyncratic, compelling wines. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999