The 2019 Filsell Old Vine Shiraz is dense and charry, verging on old school in its oak handling, but the fruit is pure, intense and dense in the mouth. This is an impressive wine and infallibly consistent to style over the years. Drink or cellar.

Sourced from vineyards between Williamstown and Lyndoch that contain a decent proportion of centenarian vines, the 2018 Filsell Old Vine Shiraz matured 18 months in 35% new hogsheads, a mix of French and American oak. Compared to the Balthasar bottling from the Eden Valley, this shows more vanilla on the nose and is plusher and rounder on the full-bodied palate. Marked by notes of plum, chocolate and caramelized meat, it's rich and creamy on the mid-palate and finishes with ample length. Priced at AU$48/￡25, it represents a terrific value.

(South Australia) Strong bouquet of pepper, iron, coconut, orange peel and blackcurrant. Good use of oak, vibrant fruit and fine tannins. Drink: 2012%u20132025. Alc: 15%.