The 2011 Gv5 is heady and ripe, dark and concentrated in a style from yesteryear. The fruit is very ripe, and it feels a little warm—the alcohol is noticeable. It also has a lot of oak, and it feels like the fruit is receding and the tannins might remain. 1,900 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2014. I'd drink it sooner rather than later and with powerful food.

The 2009 Gratavinum GV5 uses the same grape varieties but is sourced from 60-year-old vines. The nose demands coaxing from the glass and reluctantly offers aromas of blackberry, liquorice and blood orange. The palate has a sweet, medicinal entry with touches of cough candy infusing the succulent red berry fruit, while the finish is well-structured, if not quite as complex as I expected. Drink 2015-2025+ Gratavinum belongs to the Cusine family from the Penedes and is a joint project with winemaker Jordi Fernandez. They own 17 hectares of vine around Gratallops and Poboleda, entirely organically grown. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 931-1725

The 2008 GV5 consists of 75% old-vine Carinena (100+ years of age), 15% Garnacha, and the balance Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Brooding black fruits, liquid minerals, Asian spices, tapenade, and espresso compose the bouquet of this layered, plush offering. Underneath the fruit is enough structure for 4-6 years of evolution. It has a drinking window extending from 2015 to 2028. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA; Tel: (415) 931-1725

The 2007 GV5 is composed of 55% Samso, 20% Garnacha, with the balance Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 10 months in new French and Hungarian oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it displays an alluring nose of toasty minerals, underbrush, black cherry, blueberry, and plum. It, too, sports a racy personality with lively acidity providing counterpoint to the wine’s rich and layered fruit. This well balanced effort will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and offer prime drinking from 2013 to 2022. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA; Tel: (415) 931-1725