Gross’s 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Nussberg smells of caraway, sage, and mint, fills the palate with juicy, satisfyingly bright fruit, and lays down impressive salty, stony mineral traces along with the pungency of caraway, resinous herbs, and lime zest in the finish. This illustrates the combination of density of material with vivacity, elegance, and lift that is possible with Styrian wines from top sites, and is especially impressive in consideration of a difficult vintage, despite which Gross fearlessly – and, as is now evident, wisely – kept this wine in cask for 18 months. I did not visit Steiermark this year, but nonetheless had an opportunity to taste a portion of Alois Gross’s 2007s with him.Importer:Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Nussberg – the latest in a series of bottlings that Gross always releases very late – displays a lovely balance of creamy richness of texture with a clear, fine-fruited, lime, gooseberry, white peach, mint, and toasted nut expression of Sauvignon. The hints of cask add subtle complexity to the flavors and to an otherwise glossy, glycerin rich texture, and this finishes with no lack of fascinating notes one could call “mineral.” No doubt this will be worth following for several years. Alois Gross harvested his entire crop in less than three weeks during October.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700