The Gross 2006 Gewurztraminer Gamitzberg smells of yellow roses and celery seed; offers persistent floral perfume, imposing richness, yet invigorating salinity on the palate; and finishes with haunting, perfumed refinement. While far less ripe than the corresponding bottling from the Nussberg (reviewed in issue 177 and superb now that it is in bottle), this should be worth returning to for at least a couple more years.I did not visit Steiermark this year, but nonetheless had an opportunity to taste a portion of Alois Gross’s 2007s with him.Importer:Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2005 Gewurztraminer Gamitzberg – vinified partly in used barriques, partly in fuder – is scented with celery seed, black pepper, caraway, and rose petal. Notably clear, pure, refined, and juicy for a wine from this variety, its richer side emerges on an imposingly glossy palate as nut oils and smoked meat. This fine-finishing, understated Gewurztraminer will no doubt hold well for at least 3-4 years. Alois Gross harvested his entire crop in less than three weeks during October.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700