This very expensive release is one of the rare examples of Chardonnay that absolutely requires bottle age. Dry and leesy now, with a mineral compactness, it shows a rich core of baked peach, spiced apple, butterscotch and smoky honey. As it warms in the glass, it develops great flavor and textural complexities. Should come into its own by 2009, and improve for many years after.——S.H.(8/1/2008)—— 96