Despite the high (15.4%) alcohol, this sleek and textural Merlot manages to seem elegant. It neatly laces together a rich range of black fruits, annotated with black olive, smoke and earth. Astringent and polished tannins complete a sexy, seductive bottle.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 91

High-toned and already considerably far down the aging path, this 98% pure Merlot (2% Cabernet Sauvignon) brings the heat (14.9% alcohol) and packs substantial, earthy tannins. The fruit flavors remain on the lighter side of strawberry and raspberry, with a strong herbal component running through the middle and into the finish.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 86

This dark, somewhat volatile reserve wine from the Hogue Cellars is trying to push the envelope, with mixed success. Small amounts of Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet seem to have pumped up the color and the tannins, without adding much in the way of fruit. Right now it’s quite tight, and long airing does not improve it. If another year or two in bottle can work some magic, and soften up the tannins, it could turn a corner into a fine, medium-bodied Bordeaux-style wine.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 86