The 2007 Chardonnay Reserve is medium gold-colored with a perfume of toasty oak, minerals, white peach, tropical fruits, and baking spices. Savory on the palate with plenty of volume and layered fruit, it should be drunk over the next 1-2 years while the fruit, acid, and oak remain in balance. The Hogue Cellars appears to be in a renaissance of sorts. The last time I tasted their wines I was unable to recommend any of them; times have obviously changed. It is Washington’s third largest producer (600,000 cases) and the vineyards (but not the winery) are still owned by the Hogue family.www.hoguecellars.com

The best Hogue Chardonnay in years, this 2007 reserve bottling showcases fully ripened apple, peach and melon fruit flavors in a luscious wrapping of new oak. Butterscotch and a whisp of vanilla carry through the seductive finish.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 90

Much like the 2005 Hogue Reserve, this is a deep gold and fragrant with candied pineapple, buttered nuts and toast. It’s big and rich and forward, but also a bit clunky and one dimensional, without the subtlety to offset the oak. Feels just a bit oxidized, as if aging rather quickly.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 85

Deep gold and redolent of buttered nuts, this is made in the comfortable California style featuring barrel fermentation, full malolactic and extended oak aging on the lees. Results are predictably ripe and oaky, buttery and soft, with just a hint of baked apple acidity thanks to Washington-grown fruit.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 86