The 2020 Saint-Aubin La Princée is also very attractive, offering up aromas of crisp green apple, fresh mint, white flowers and warm bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny palate that's built around racy acids and chalky extract. It's a model of purity and precision.

Aromas of pear, freshly baked bread, lemon oil and bread dough introduce Lamy's 2019 Saint-Aubin La Princée, a medium to full-bodied, layered and incisive wine built around a racy spine of acidity and chalky extract. Concluding with a saline finish, this has turned out beautifully.

The 2018 Saint-Aubin La Princée is showing well, opening in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, white flowers and crisp Anjou pear. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and precise, it's saline and incisive, Lamy observing that some two-thirds of this parcel is decidedly cool and windy.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin La Princée is very pretty, displaying notes of pear, white flowers, citrus oil and a subtle touch of anise. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, tangy and elegantly textural, with excellent length on the precise finish.

The 2016 Saint-Aubin La Princée comes from ten different parcels, each affected by frost to different degrees according to Olivier Lamy. It has a fresh lime and Granny Smith apple scented bouquet. The palate is fresh with bitter lemon, great tension, not shrill but certainly sharp with a precise saline finish. Angular at the moment, give this 12 months in bottle, then drink over the next 3 or 4 years.