Following the same recipe and blend as the 2007, the 2008 Taberner #1 is very ripe with sings of overripe fruit, dried figs, prunes, dry plums with strong balsamic, incense and cloves that develop more and more animal sensations as the wine sits in the glass. The palate is more balanced, but again, it leaves the sensation of high-yielding young vines with excess of oak. It would be passable at a much lower price. 4,500 bottles.

The top-of-the-range Taberner #1 is mostly Syrah, with 13% Merlot and a pinch of Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine fermented with yeasts in 5,000-liter oak vats and matured for two year in barriques, new and second-use. The nose has pungent vegetal and oak aromas showing some development, and includes brick dust, leather and hung game. The palate is medium to full-bodied with an acidic sensation and powdery tannins, akin to a minor Bordeaux. Mind the price tag. 5,000 bottles.

The 2006 Taberner No. 1 is a blend of 80% Syrah with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot aged for 14 months in new French oak. It displays an already complex aromatic array of sandalwood, pencil lead, smoked meat, Asian spices, blueberry, and blackberry. Dense and layered on the palate, this rich, intensely flavored wine is all about pleasure. It has enough stuffing to evolve for 2-3 years and will be in its prime from 2012 to 2021. Importer: Steve Miles Selections, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 495-3811

The 2005 Tabernet #1 has more of everything than the regular bottling. Deeper in color, and even more expressive aromatically, with fragrant aromas of grilled meat, game, and wild blueberry, this opulent wine is rocking. Full-bodied, the wine exhibits layer upon layer of spicy, ripe, sweet fruit, superb balance, and a 60-second finish. Put this exciting wine in a blind tasting of your favorite northern Rhones and prepare to be shocked. Enjoy it through 2027. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565