The 2007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Cru Vitaroccia is a big, huge wine laced with dark cherries, plums, chocolate, mocha and espresso. The Icario house style is very much on display. The Vitaroccia is one of the more intense, fleshy Vino Nobiles readers will come across. Personally, I have a preference for the straight Vino Nobile bottling because of its better overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Icario can be counted on for extravagant, opulent Vino Nobiles that push the limits of what is possible within the appellation. No known American importer.

Layers of dark fruit, tobacco and earthiness characterize the 2006 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Cru Vitaroccia, a decidedly plush, explosive wine loaded with personality. Darker scents of tar and smoke round out the powerful, authoritative finish. The 2006 is a touch monolithic, but it should settle down in another year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907