Aromas of toasted cloves, cedar and chocolate with plums, mulberries and earthy undertones. Medium- to full-bodied, dry and polished with fine tannins and a juicy, savory fruit profile. Flavorful and mineral at the end. Still a little tight. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The Il Molino di Grace 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Margone (with a certification for organics) has oxidative aromas of dried apple skin or candied cherry that add a sense of vertical lift to the bouquet. That slightly aldehydic tone is followed by sweet earth and cured tobacco. The wine remains gracefully free of too much extraction or fruit weight. In fact, it hits a nice spot of medium concentration with a lively close. The bouquet is not perfect, but the wine has personality. Some 15,000 bottles were made.

Made with organic fruit, the Il Molino di Grace 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Margone is fresh and lively, showing the precision and focus that is associated with this classic vintage across Tuscany. Cassis, berry fruit and wild plum segue to light spice, tilled earth and crushed flowers. This is a mid-weight wine that shows more in terms of length and polish than it does richness or bulk. These are very nice results.

You get some good ripe fruit darkness and exuberance from the 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Margone, a Sangiovese that opens to a dark garnet color with dried cherry and plum. But as a Gran Selezione wine, this one shows less depth and complexity than I would have anticipated. Fruit comes from a 37-hectare vineyard in Panzano in Chianti.

Gran Selezione wines are distinguished by their added extract and the richer textural impact they make in the mouth, among other qualities. Tasting the 2013 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Margone next to Il Molino di Grace's 2015 Chianti Classico gives you a perfect view onto the stylistic distances between the two wines. This expression is redolent of dark fruit, baking spice and cinnamon stick. The mouthfeel here is brighter and more buoyant than expected, thanks to that crisp acidity (developed in this cooler vintage) tucked neatly at the back.