The 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Pieluni is the estate's top selection. Waves of inky, jammy fruit flow onto the palate in this rich, extroverted Montepulciano. Two years of French oak have given the Pieluni considerable textural richness and volume, but also left the wine with plenty of tannic heft. Whether or not the tannins ultimately soften is an open question, but sometimes less is more, as is quite evident in tasting the estate's lower-end wines, many of which I prefer. Still, the wine's aromatic complexity and nuance all suggest this could be a significantly more important bottling with a more refined approach in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Illuminati is a good source for bold Montepulciano and Montepulciano-based reds. Importer: Tricana Imports, Plainview, NY; tel. (516) 935-4080

The 2006 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Pieluni is made in a super-ripe, opulent style. Blueberry and blackberry fruit along with French oak dominate the flavor profile of the massive Pieluni. Although the wine’s concentration is notable, much of that richness has been achieved with a significant loss of varietal character, which is a shame, as the quality of the fruit is clearly first-rate. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Illuminati makes some of the most extroverted, rich Montepulcianos readers are likely to come across. Importer: Tricana Imports, Plainview, NY; tel. (516) 935-4080

The 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Pieluni adds yet another layer of richness, depth and ripeness. This soft, sensual wine caresses the palate with layers of super-ripe dark red fruit, toasted oak, spices, leather and licorice. This is the most ripe and dense of these offerings from Illuminati. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. This is a beautiful set of wines from Dino Illuminati, a producer who favors a distinctly ripe, fruit-driven style that is enhanced by the use of French oak for the top wines. Importer: Tricana Imports, Plainview, NY; tel. (516) 935-4080