The 2004 Blanc de Blancs is a 100% barrel-fermented Chardonnay that was aged five years on the yeast. It possesses a light straw color, notes of white currants, wheat thins, candied lemons, nectarines, and quince, well-formed, tiny bubbles, light to medium body, a delicate, finesse style, and terrific purity as well as length. This is an impressive group of sparkling wines from Joy Sterling and her team at Iron Horse.Tel. (707) 887-1507; fax (707) 887-1337

An exquisite, 100% Chardonnay. Drinks drier than most California bubblies, with firm acidity framing delicate flavors of lime rind, hazelnut, vanilla, yeast and smoke. Just lovely and ethereal now, and should hold for some years.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 92