Available only in magnum, the non-vintage Joy! (named after the proprietress) is a multi-vintage blend that is aged an amazing 10-15 years on the yeast in the bottle. Aromas of crushed rocks, honeyed grapefruit, citrus blossoms, and a hint of toast are followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with broad flavors that are gentle yet substantial. This beauty builds incrementally in the mouth, and is fresh, clean, dry, and zesty with an impressively long finish. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years, although I suspect it will keep a lot longer. This is an impressive group of sparkling wines from Joy Sterling and her team at Iron Horse.Tel. (707) 887-1507; fax (707) 887-1337

Aged on the lees for 13 years, this wine has developed stunning creaminess and complexity. Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, it shows a hazelnut smokiness, with fantastically rich, subtle layers of limes, apples, tangerine zest, minerals and yeast. There’s a honeyed richness to the finish, which balances high acidity, making it feel dry. A tremendous brut that should develop for years to come. Now–2020, in a cool cellar. Production was 50 cases.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 98