Moving forward in sophistication, the 2010 Alto Adige Lagrein Steinraffler shows the black inky traits that are characteristic of the grape. This is an opaque, impenetrable wine with an interesting sense of balance that pits thick, black fruit against more subtle tones of spice and leather. Usually you worry about oak overpowering the fruit of a wine. This Lagrein presents an interesting case of the fruit overwhelming the oak. Smooth flavors, dried blackberry, chocolate and polished tannins characterize the mouthfeel.

The estate’s 2007 Lagrein showcases the wilder side of this variety. This medium-bodied red exhibits a profile of dark fruit, earthiness, game and licorice in a somewhat rustic, four-square style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Once again, I left my tasting of the Hofst?tter line-up feeling that the estate could be more consistent across the board, especially with their entry-level wines. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2006 Lagrein Steinraffler is a gorgeous refined Lagrein that captures plenty of varietal nuance while also achieving remarkable elegance. Dark blueberries, grilled herbs, juniper berries and violets meld together beautifully in this medium-bodied yet generous, impeccably balanced Lagrein. The finish is round, pure and totally harmonious. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Proprietor Martin Foradori can be counted on for sleek, elegant wines that capture the essence of some of the greatest terroirs in Alto Adige. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2004 Lagrein Steinraffler bursts onto the palate with generous dark fruit on a soft, mid-weight frame. The wine loses a touch of depth on the palate, but, nevertheless, it offers commendable balance. Grilled herbs, earthiness, licorice and leather add complexity on the polished finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. This is a beautiful set of new releases from proprietor Martin Foradori Hofstatter. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2003 Lagrein Steinraffler is the highlight in this year’s line up. This gorgeous, lush red possesses terrific depth and richness in its dark fruit, mint, spices and herbs. It is an unusually polished Lagrein to enjoy over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. Once again, I left my tasting of the Hofst?tter line-up feeling that the estate could be more consistent across the board, especially with their entry-level wines. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799