The 2000 Lagrein Steinraffler is a big, concentrated wine packed with expressive aromatics, sumptuous dark fruit, spices and minerals. It reveals a layered, vibrant personality and a generosity in its fruit that makes it highly pleasurable to taste, and more importantly, to drink. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Proprietor Martin Foradori Hofstatter makes a wide range of wines from his vineyards, which are spread out among several of Alto Adige’s sub-zones. Hofstatter is among the most ardent ambassadors for his region and is capable of talking for hours about his wines and Alto Adige, which he clearly adores. The estate’s top bottlings are all worth seeking out. If there is one criticism to be made, it is that the quality of the entry-level wines could be more consistent. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799